MELONS: A GREAT SUMMER PLANT
Melons are quick growing, ground covers or vines, spreading to several metres, with large leaves, and large hard, coated fruit with tasty, moisture laden centres. Water melons and cantaloupes are examples. They can be quite variable, especially the heirloom varieties, for example - watermelon flesh may be the common red but also pink, white or lemon and even apricot and orange! The outside skins may be plain green or striped or even yellow. They can be as small as 2kg or as large as 14kg. Cantaloupes too come in a variety of sizes and colours ranging from round to banana shape and the common orange but also lemon or green flesh. You buy seed varieties that will grow and mature even in colder climates.
Here is an example of the types of heirloom varieties you can buy:
Cantaloupes (Cucumis melo):
- ‘Ananas’: yellow flesh a very old and rare variety harvest in 75-90 days).
- ‘Honey Dew Green’: a green flesh variety (harvest in 100-120 days).
- ‘Honey Dew Orange’: the typical orange flesh variety (harvest in 100-120 days).
- ‘Honey Rock’; a typical orange flesh variety (harvest in 75-90 days).
- ‘Petit Gris De Rennes’; a very old variety going back some 400 years. Perfect for cooler climates. (90-100 days to harvest).
- ‘Top Mark’: hardy and disease resistant variety with green, juicy flesh (harvest 80 – 90 days).
Musk melons: similar to cantaloupes in look but with a smooth skin
‘Casaba Golden Beauty’: gold skin with a creamy flesh (100 – 110 days to harvest).
Watermelons:
- ‘Black Diamond’: a stunning dark green skinned melon with bright red flesh (harvest 85 days).
- ‘Sugar Baby’: a very dark green, small watermelon with great juicy flesh- this one is suited to cool climates as it is a miniature and early maturing variety (70 days to harvest).
- ‘Cream of Saskatchewan’ – a very tasty white fleshed variety skin tends to split at maturity – but well worth the effort (70 days to harvest).
For a wide range of heirloom varieties try Diggers Seeds, Kings Seeds, Eden Seeds or Green Harvest.
Growing conditions: melons prefer hot, dry conditions. They are very frost tender. They are suitable for warm seasons in temperate climates, but can be grown for more extended periods in warmer areas.
Culture: melons are best grown in well drained, preferably sandy soils. They respond well to frequent feeding. A pH range of 6.5 to 7 is preferred and the soil must be moisture retentive to grow good juicy crops. If you soils are acidic then add dolomite or garden lime. These plants love calcium so if your soils are within the right range then use gypsum instead as a source of calcium.
In cooler areas plant in a north facing garden bed so you optimise the amount of sun. Melons need lots of water during plant establishment (the root zone should never dry), and during fruit set, but not during fruit ripening.
Planting: seed should be planted 3-5cm deep in spring, after danger of frosts has passed and the days are warm. In cool areas it is best to sow the seed in pots under cover or indoors around October and plant out in about mid-November. In warmer areas they can be sown directly in early spring. Planting distance will depend on variety. 6 plants will feed the average family.
Problems: fruit may not set because of pollination problems. Bee attracting companion plants can be useful, but they may also need hand pollinating. Crop rotation is important to prevent disease build-up in your garden beds.
Pest and disease problems of melons:
- Aphis: hose off with water or spray with ‘soap’ or 'oil'.
- Cutworm: these pests love the young stems of seedling; use cardboard collars around seedling to a depth of around 1cm or so. Leafhoppers: spray with a product such as ‘Eco Oil’.
- Mites: hose off or use ‘Oil’ or ‘Soap’ spays to smother them.
- White fly: hang glue traps.
- Powdery mildew: spray with a product like ‘Eco Fungicide’.
- Anthracnose: a 4 year crop rotation is important.
Harvest: melons ripen according to the variety some have a short season others a long season. In cool areas it is unlikely that you will be harvesting before the end of February. When ripe, fruit will pull away from the stem easily.